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One of my favorite childhood treats was my mom’s Saturday night fondue. By then the 1970s fondue craze had faded and few restaurants offered it, so her pot was a special event. She made an amazing fondue that her friends still talk about, and I can picture her in the 70s, surrounded by a crowd and serving bubbling cheese.
Luckily, that fondue tradition stuck with her. Less fortunately, other 70s habits did not. She studied music in college during that era, which I jokingly associate with endless fondue—and perhaps a few other things I won’t pretend to know about. But the fondue is what I remember and crave.
I love cheese. Cheese is my friend. My thighs might disagree.
I made a few small changes to my mom’s recipe. After rubbing the fondue pot with a garlic clove, I chopped another clove finely, mixed it with a pinch of salt, and mashed it into a paste. I wanted the garlic flavor infusing the fondue without noticeable chunks.
I’m not a fan of large bits in my cheese; I prefer it silky. That said, my body seems to respond well to generous helpings—probably because I don’t skimp on finishing an entire pot.
The garlic paste worked beautifully, lending a subtle, balanced garlic note. I suspect my mom would approve—although she didn’t really use garlic much until it became a staple of modern cooking.
This particular fondue was technically for two.
By two, I mean me and myself. My husband wasn’t interested—he prefers meat-heavy meals and wasn’t tempted by a pot of dipping cheese. That’s fine with me; it meant I didn’t have to share and he took care of less cleaning. Fair trade.
The dippers were simple and classic: lightly toasted Italian bread, crisp apples, and juicy pears.
My favorite pairing was the pears—their juicy sweetness balanced the tang of the cheese perfectly. That said, I probably ate the most bread; six slices disappeared before I realized it. The pears made me feel at least a little virtuous.
Of course, fondue will never be a health food, and I’m fine with that. It’s an indulgence meant to be enjoyed on slow evenings when you want something comforting and communal. After dinner I sat staring at the Christmas decorations still strung around the house, procrastinating taking them down. Not because I love them, but because I was being lazy. Hopefully the decorations disappear themselves—preferably before guests come over.
Cheese Fondue
Serves 2-4
1 cup white wine (Riesling or another dry white)
1 1/4 cups shredded Gruyere
1 cup shredded Emmentaler or other Swiss-style cheese
1–2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 garlic clove, plus 1 more for rubbing the pot
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
Rub the fondue pot with a garlic clove. Finely mince the second clove and combine it with a pinch of salt; mash with the back of a knife into a paste.
Bring the wine to a gentle simmer. Toss the shredded cheeses with the cornstarch. Add the cheese to the wine in batches, stirring constantly until smooth and fully incorporated. Stir in the garlic paste and nutmeg. Adjust seasoning to taste.
Serve immediately with toasted bread, sliced apples, pears, or your favorite vegetables for dipping.